27 Feb Editorial #05
What happens when a building decides to wear a dress or the opposite? FormFollowsFashion today deals with buildings that have great resemblance with garments.
In Bishop Edward King Chapel inner space designed by Niall McLaughlin Architects, a ring of columns bending inwards and enmesh reminds of Junya Watanabe’s AW2015 catwalk. In this show during Paris Fashion Week, the Japanese fashion designer featured voluminous origami-influenced headdresses and a selection of ponchos made of fabric mesh.
The Serpentine Gallery Pavillion in London “Eighteen Turns’ by Daniel Libeskind in collaboration with Balmond featured steep inclines combined with intersecting planes. On the otherside, the dress showcased by Hussein Chalaya – the master of ‘architectural fashion’ – and made of folding planes recalls the pavillion’s structure.
Issey Miyake pleated garments have become a staple for the brand. It is not exaggeration to say that Hongkou SOHO office building in Shanghai designed by Kengo Kuma has almost worn a dress of the SS16 Miyake collection. It is not about the technique, since the Japanese fashion house has created undulations across clothing for this collection by baking it in an oven, but it is the effect that makes this similarity so obvious.
The well-known department store Selfridges in Birmingham , designed by Future System, more or less wears a metallic dress of Paco Rabbane, who is famous for this kind of dresses from 1960’s.
Projects such as pavillions give freedom to the designers as far as form is concerned since they are placed ootdoors where shape restrictions are not applied. This become obvious in the case of the Research Pavillion designed by Institute for Computational Design and the Institute of Building Structures at the University of Stuttgart in 2012 and was robotically fabricated. Although according to designers the inspiration has its roots in the morphological principles of anthropods, we can not overlook its resemblance to the voluminous balloon gold dress designed by Alexis Mabille in Spring 2018.
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Architecture: Bishop Edward King Chapel in Oxford, UK, designed by Niall McLaughlin Architects
Fashion: Junya Watanabe AW2015
Folds in volume
Architecture: Serpentine Gallery Pavillion in London, UK, designed by Daniel Libeskind
Fashion: Hussein Chalayan
Pleats in skin
Architecture: Hongkou SOHO office building in Shanghai, China, designed by Kengo Kuma
Fashion: Issay Miyake SS16
Architectural photography Hongkou SOHO©Eiichi KANO
Metallic panels in skin
Architecture: Selfridges department store in Birmingham, UK, designed by Future Systems
Fashion: Paco Rabanne Spring 2012
Balloon effect in volume
Architecture: ICD-ITKE Research Pavillion, University of Stuttgart in Germany
Fashion: Alexis Mabille Spring 2018